UNDERSTATEMENT: Textures of Autumn


Textures of Autumn

Before another edition of Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW) begins on the 8th of October, here are some beautiful textures seen at WIFW Autumn/Winter 2014. Wear them right now for this season.

These are in no particular order but among them, our top favourites are Nachiket Barve’s interpretation of Maori tribe’s chisel and inked tattoos on flesh-coloured fabric and faux leather, Rimzim Dadu’s shredded chiffon and Akaaro’s steel and silk weaves.

1. Escape by Zubair Kirmani

Using the age old technique of Tila (silver zari), Kirmani’s lovely collection used patterns inspired by the Kashmiri architectural tradition of Khatamband.

Lounge Loves: This diaphanous red sheer outfit with geometric zari patterns ingeniously mixed with traditional paisley designs.

2. Maia by Nachiket Barve

Inspired by the Maori warrior tribe of New Zealand, Barve’s Maia collection included Kirituhi tattoos, or rather abstracted patterns based on the original tattoos used by Maori tribals to mark the skin as a form of identity. The tribals would use chisels to create patterns and then ink them. Barve’s collection also used the unfurling silver fern frond as another prominent motif. The vividly textured collection used woolen felt, beadwork, fine bullion embroidery, tie-dye fringes, 3-D thread work, applique with organza and stitch resist.

Lounge Loves: This garment in flesh coloured fabric that replicates Maori tattoo patterns created with fine embroidery.

3. Broken by Anand Bhushan

A designer who loves the alternative (as opposed to populist impulses) Bhushan’s textures for autumn and winter were metaphorically laden and technically complex. “Mollecular grouping, atom formations, DNA strains and chromosome structures are supersized and crafted as motifs and patterns using acrylic, metal, plastic and leather,” said his press release.

Lounge Loves: The approach and the idea. Look at how this textural sheath over a crop top and slim skirt challenges what we usually run after as fashion.

4. Unamed: My Village by Rimzim Dadu

The poster girl for experimental textures in Indian fashion, Dadu offers something unique each season. “We are not fond of uncomplicating things,” she wrote about this collection, quite rightly. Strips of shredded chiffon were twisted into cords cut in different lengths and attached together creating different patterns.

Lounge Loves: This black chiffon sari-ensemble which would stand out as a red carpet piece. So stark in its look; so gritty as an idea.

5. V (Vendetta): Akaaro by Gaurav Jai Gupta

In Jai Gupta’s own words, the collection “was inspired by WORLDSOUNDPOWERs Blood Earth project, a New Delhi based collective that collects multi-media collaborations with South Asian artists on issues of social justice.” Drawing visual references from Dongria Kandh tribe of Orissa, Jai Gupta wove hand woven yarns, to create separates and drape pieces.

Lounge Loves: The coming together of warm and cool colours and the way the different textures create a nuanced field of reference, called, in this case, the long dress.

6. Bhinna Shadja by Vaishali Shadangule

Using both construction and drapes in her silhouettes, Shadangule used wool, textured embroidery of cord and evenly tied beads to create the surfaces of this collection.

Lounge Loves: There is something exceptional in this garment. Its modern shape, its excess by way of simplicity, its fuss.

7. Pankaj and Nidhi

Inspired by Imperial China’s tradition of playing cards that made its way to Spain and Portugal in the 14th Century, Pankaj & Nidhi created a texture-rich collection (their signature) for autumn and winter. Embroideries and graphic patterns got filtered through Spades, Diamonds, Hearts and Clubs in silhouettes akin to matador costumes including capes and turn-back jackets in mint green, powder blue, and vermillion, black and white.

Lounge Loves: This cascading floor length shirt-cape with a white collar embroidered with gold cord work. Don’t miss the high waist pants with brass buttons.

8. Kiran Uttam Ghosh

KUG’s signature pleats and pleat-textured fabrics take a different form every season while retaining the brand’s promise. This once she did calf length skirts with sheer wide net trousers with embroidery on the hemlines.

Lounge Loves: This gold rush. The pleated long, asymmetrical skirt in rose gold metallic paired with gold net pants and a bronze gold soft cape.

9. Tana Bana by Paromita Banerjee

Using bespoke weaves from WomenWeave in silks and stripes, Banerjee used three stories to narrate Tana Bana. Using mulberry silk, Azo free vat dyes and handspun cotton, one of these three stories used 2 coloured ply and twisted thread to enhance the texture of the woven surface.

Lounge Loves: This mix of checquered wide palazzos, block printed short tunic and woven soft jacket.

10. Turkish Delight by Jenjum Gadi

Using Iznik, the local Turkish art that included Ottomon Arabesque patterns with Chinese elements as his inspiration, Gadi recreated the Iznik patterns with ribbons and fine beads.

Lounge Loves: This dress in peacock blue, azure blue sparked with yellow and orange ribbons and beads creating a textured embroidered surface.